How a rescued Persian cat reacts to noise in the home, depends on the personality of the cat and his genetic make-up, combined with his past experiences and whatever's going on in your own home.

Genetics can mean he is a naturally shy or nervous cat, and that nothing can be done about this. I have found, for example, that all the cream boys in my own 'family', being of the same line, are similarly nervous and need lots of quiet reassurance. Even paying too much attention to this type of cat, beyond just talking to them softly, can be too much and result in stress behaviours as described.

If a cat has experienced neglect or cruelty at the hands of former owners, he may well never get better in the average family home; it may take years even in a quiet environment. Improvements may be small and piecemeal, and you might not notice these except when looking back over a long period.

It is important to accept this and not push it by (for example) trying to persistently coax a nervous cat out of his hiding place or, worse, physically taking him out. I have known owners to even crawl under beds and into wardrobes to try and 'reassure' a hiding cat; you can imagine the consequences.

It has taken one of my cream Persian boys two years to want to meet visitors at all, and another has messed on carpets for the same length of time. I didn't attempt to pick them up until they came and 'asked' to be held. I gave them their own space and allowed them to be shy and be frightened, but would reassure them by always talking to them if visitors came or if there was other upheaval. Both are now really coming on in leaps and bounds but it was a struggle; I'm sure that without a quiet home, these two cats would have stayed frightened and insecure.

So, don't make it a big deal if your Persian hides away to some degree, as long as he's getting better rather than worse. Of course, if he hides for a week or more, and you just don't see him, he's telling you that your home is not where he wants to be. If you do suspect you have taken a cat who's not happy with you, and if it's causing him more stress, you should return him to the rescue without delay. Advise them of the problem, though, as soon as you can; it's possible they can guide you through and avoid you having to return him.

Please also read the following 'Care' sections which will help you to correctly position the new cat's bowls, bedding, etc., and to know how other aspects of your life can be managed to better integrate him.

Before closing this section, I just want to make the point that I do not ever home cats to people who are buying cats as a gift for their children. You must be buying the cat for yourself, as the children will lose interest and will eventually leave home anyway.

The rescued cat needs to go to someone who can offer stability and consistency - not someone whose plans may change or may not even have been considered. Further, this is a difficult breed for children to be allowed to care for - the number of cats who come in wholly neglected, shows that even adults tire of the relentless hard work involved, or are ignorant of what's needed to keep a specialist breed healthy. When I rehome a cat, I seek to ascertain as far as possible, that the adopter's plans fit in with the likely lifespan of the cat being adopted; with children as owners, this is an unknown quantity.

WORKING PATTERNS                       return to top

Persian cats are not usually very self-sufficient, contrary to the belief that 'all cats are independent'! Persians aren't 'cats', they are Persians!!

This breed craves human company and affection, once they have learned to trust their new owners. They suffer boredom and stress from being alone, and this can have serious consequences. It is vital that you consider what your Persian has to keep him occupied when you're not there.

One lady looked at me like I was mad, recently, when I refused to let her adopt a particular cat as an 'only cat' in a working household, where she'd have been on her own all day and bored rigid, being young and playful. I had asked her 'what will the cat do all day when you're not there?' She didn't get what I was saying, at all, but this Persian was used to being in a home with the constant company of three other cats and a self employed person. I wasn't about to send her to a lifetime's solitary confinement!

Even a rescued, nervous Persian would rather that you didn't leave him entirely on his own; he will be reassured by the knowledge that you are somewhere in the home, even if he doesn't choose to come to you yet. You might not even think he values you - but he will. As you get to know him and understand his behaviours, you will realise just how much your company means to him.

It is really not ideal to have a Persian cat if you are going to be out at work all day. The solution here would be to arrange working patterns so that someone can be with the cat much of the time. If this isn't possible, then consider a different breed that's more self sufficent. If after all this thought, you still want a Persian, please take not one cat, but two, so that at least they will be company for each other. Your existing cat of a different breed may not be sufficient company for a Persian. Many other breeds are very different in temperament from the Persian, so it may take a second Persian to provide really good company.

It doesn't really 'count' as company for your Persian, that you're going to be at home in the evening and night-time; in reality most working people are too busy or tired in the evening, to pay that much attention to the cat, and then they go to bed! You aren't going to be much company, when you're asleep, especially if you shut the cat out of the bedroom (the highlight of many Persians' day, is going to bed with their owner as here they feel especially close to you).

The Persian cat needs daily dedicated one to one attention if he's to be really happy. You will see how much this time means to the Persian by the fact that most Persians wait for their owners to come home, and can't wait to be reunited, even if you have only been outside for an hour or two. Most will lie at their owners' feet when the owner is seated, go to bed with the owner, get up with him, etc.

My own Persians used to howl and line up at the window like little prisoners, whenever I sat in the garden or washed the car, until I made the courtyard secure and allowed them to join me. If I went away for the day, my sister (cat-sitter extraordinaire) said that they had been miserable.

Male Persians love to be doing whatever their owners are doing. It's important to make this possible even if you're busy. If you're working at the PC let him sit by the keyboard, and occasionally reach out to stroke him, or just softly say his name (and that alone may incite a purring and head butting frenzy). If you're on the phone for a long chat, sit on the floor so he can join you. Take him with you into the shower room and again, talk to him while you're showering or getting ready. Basically, encourage his interaction and don't be angry that he is always getting in the way of what you're trying to do. He's just telling you that he needs your time and love, and that he really really likes being with you.

So, knowing all this...when acquiring a Persian, have you considered what amounts of time you can give him and how this will fit around your working day?

Also, if you go away on work trips or courses, have you thought about how will he feel and who will care for him? Persians will often have a strong affinity to their owner - this will usually be the person who gives them most love, in the way they want to be loved, so it isn't usually enough to just ask your partner to feed the cat, etc., while you're away. They need you. If you are going to be away for work, then take from us a more confident cat who's more likely to bond with several people in the household. The rescue will advise of this, if you explain the situation.

Last, despite the fact that Persians need lots of human company, please don't take your Persian to work! I once declined a prospective new owner because he specifically wanted "a cat that will come to work in the van with me". Persians aren't that confident, don't like being ferried about, and react badly to change. If your work doesn't fit in with the correct care of your existing Persian, then please let a good rescue rehome your Persian rather than resorting to desperate measures such as taking him to work!

SAFETY ASPECTS                       return to top

It is crucial to keep your Persian indoors for his own safety, regardless of whether he's a rescued cat or whether you've had him from a kitten.

It is true that many people treat Persians just like any other cat, and allow them the use of a cat flap or other outdoor access; you might know someone whose Persians have always gone outside, and they will say 'I never had any problems'! That's unlikely. The outdoor Persian probably has problems the owners don't even know about. Whenever I hear about a Persian who died young, I wonder if this was an outdoor cat, and often it was.

I'm sure that all responsible Persian rescues will advise you that sooner or later they come to harm outdoors, since they lack many of the independent and street-wise traits of other breeds; also they are really not very hardy and fall prey to many ailments and illnesses that moggies might well fend off. (Cat rescues that aren't Persian specific, however, might not know the breed traits very well and they may even advocate that you let the cat out and treat him the same as a moggy...! Specialist Persian rescues won't go along with this).

The ways in which Persians come to harm outdoors, are several (and not all are obvious):

Road Traffic Accident

Persians don't have much (if any) road sense. They will sit under parked cars and fail to move when the car pulls away!

They don't have a natural fear of traffic, and can often be seen lying or sitting in the middle of the road as traffic whizzes by!

The injured Persian doesn't usually manage to make his way back home. You would have to actively scour the area to find him. He will be found under a bush or in a dark inaccessible area; When he is hurt, his instinct isn't to go back home but he'll seek to lie in a quiet place and die alone. Even very minor injury is enough to send a Persian into hiding. Having a Persian microchipped, which many owners seem to think will work as a guardian angel for their outdoor cat(!) is not going to help if he's crawled away to die and isn't found for weeks!

Dog Bite

Many male Persians in particular will try and make friends with anything on 4 legs, whether it's a kitten or a Pit Bull! They fall victim to being shaken and bitten by dogs, and this can result in brain damage from which euthanasia usually has to follow.

Persians also tend to come off worst in fights with other moggy cats, as their own fighting instincts aren't that strong and they usually prefer to run away, but get cornered. Or, they run away in panic, and get knocked down. They aren't generally territorial so most don't know what fighting is all about. Some are just too lazy to bother!

There are of course the dangers of disease and infection from all kinds of bites from other animals, including wildlife.

Strange Eating Habits!

The outdoor Persian often gets tempted to eat things he shouldn't and, believe it or not, this poses one of the biggest dangers outside. Bear in mind that 1 in 3 Persians - including very young ones - will die from kidney failure, some of which is genetic. You need to take every step to protect his kidneys and watch his diet.

If you allow your Persian to go outside unsupervised, (even in the average planted garden) then he is at risk from eating all manner of plants and unsavoury things that will shorten his life. You could not possibly know that he is safe. I would like to show you some examples. A blue boy who came in for rehoming had always been an outdoor cat. I was told that he really loved collecting leaves and rubbish, and bringing these home. In fact, he was a kleptomaniac and would not only bring these home, but would line them up and eat them.

In fact, many Persians - again, more boys than girls - consider plastic to be part of their staple diet and will do anything to get some! They will not just chew, but will eat whole Mars Bar wrappers, bin liners, etc. The first thing you might know of this is when the vet finds a lump and carries out an enterotomy...sometimes removing bits of plastic from the gut.

There are dangers from toxic plants (which Persians love to eat), from disinfectants and cleaning fluids left in garages and used to wash down drives and patios, and from food put out for other animals.

One of the worst possible things that can happen to an outdoors Persian, is that some 'kind' neighbour starts to befriend your Persian and feeds him all kinds of meat or other foods not usually part of his diet. For example, most proprietary tinned foods - Felix, Whiskas, etc., aren't suited to Persians and are not recommended. They will also fill your cat up and he won't want his dry diet. His kidney function will suffer and you will lose him early. He will probably lose condition as an early warning sign. Neighbours are also prone to feeding cats roast dinners, crisps, and anything else a cat will eat. You are allowing your Persian to be killed if you advocate this.

Outdoor Toileting

Again, many Persians die young from kidney failure, so you need to know not only what goes into the cat but what comes out! Problems with passing urine, straining, bleeding when urinating, and intestinal issues - diarrhoea, constipation, rectal bleeding - need keeping an eye on. If you let the cat toilet in the garden or wander further afield, how will you know what he's passing, and how will you see the signs if something's going wrong?

Empty Houses

Empty houses - such as those on the market, where the occupants are on holiday, or homes for rental- are a real risk to your Persian. Many Persians are curious enough to go into an empty house via the cat flap, but not able to get out again. Some can only use a cat flap in one direction(!) and once indoors will be trapped by their own inability to rationalise the way out.

However, you should also realise that some flaps will only let cats in and not out, as they have an inside lock, that prevents a cat getting back outside.

I have heard of several Persians dying - or coming close to death - in empty houses. They aren't found until the agent or new occupier goes in.

Fleas, Worms, Ticks

I am sure that all outdoor Persians do have at least one or two fleas despite owners' protestations that 'he has never had fleas!'. This is what most people say when asked what flea protection they use.

The majority of cats coming into rescue do have fleas on arrival despite owners saying their cat is exempt!

Just one flea can make the life of a longhaired cat a misery.

I have come across people whose Persians go into their own garden/courtyard only, and who think this makes them immune from fleas! I don't think that the average flea knows which is a private garden and which is woodland! I have a secure courtyard here, but all my cats are always flea protected.

If you have a garden of any description then you are definitely allowing fleas into contact with your Persian as these will be carried by hedgehogs (prolific flea harbourers), mice, voles, etc.

Worms and ticks are also more likely, in the outdoor cat, and again these aren't easily spotted. It's easy for a tick to hide in the undercoat and not get found.

I would advise that cats are allowed into a secure garden only, but that even here they must be fastidiously flea protected.

PLACEMENT OF BOWLS, ETC.                       return to top

Don't forget that many rescued cats had eating problems when they first came into rescue, and that a substantial amount of work has probably been put into getting him eating regularly and sufficiently. It's critical that you continue to facilitate this.

Sometimes I find on making a follow up home visit to a new home, that a cat has lost a significant amount of weight, and this tends to be in cases where the home is kept 'just so' and everything has its place. Many people think that a cat's feeding place should be in the kitchen or not at all!

I feel this is something you can aim for, but not necessarily have right away. The middle of the kitchen floor isn't usually the best place to feed a rescued cat as many kitchens are the major thoroughfare for the household, and the cat will worry and not eat enough.

Especially with a rescued cat, it is important (for some length of time) to provide a nice, quiet area for feeding where he won't be disturbed by opening doors, draughts, other animals, kids, etc. He will probably not want to venture downstairs to eat, especially if the household is busy or there are other animals about.

Provide somewhere as secure and private as possible. Remove other animals, kids, partner, etc. from the room! The smallest distraction can stop the nervous cat from eating, and send him scurrying off. To see that he is eating enough, you might stay in the room with him yourself but stop all activities; sit on the floor some distance away from him and just observe. Stay quiet. A good technique to implement with a particularly nervous cat, is to imagine that it's not a cat you're feeding, but a wild rabbit or squirrel! Imagine how you would conduct yourself if this were the case. Some rescued Persians behave similarly in their eating, ie. a sudden movement, a noise or a door opening will make them run away; if this is the only time they have ventured out to the food bowl that day, this could be really important for the cat's welfare and continued improvement.

Many cats feel safer eating at an elevated height. It is probable that your rescued cat will find himself a high place to sleep, for the first weeks, where he feels more secure; in this case, place a food dish of his own, and a water bowl, in his favourite spot. This way you'll also know that he is eating enough. However, if this happens to be an out of the way place, make sure you go back and check regularly. Ensure the dishes are washed and refilled regularly.

You might also place feeding points around the house, so that wherever he hides away or spends his time, he can have easy access without having to evaluate whether it's safe to come and feed. In my own property I have water bowls in the kitchen, living room, entrance hall, bedroom and secure courtyard. All the bowls are used every day by the cats. Food bowls are in the kitchen, entrance hall and periodically even the living room. Because I advocate only the premium science plan dried feeds, it's not the kind of food that's unhygienic to have lying around and it's no problem - apart from looking unsightly - if it gets on the carpet! If you have visitors coming, or another disturbance is going to take place in the room your cat normally uses for eating, then anticipate this and remove the food bowl to another safe place for the Persian, and take the Persian cat into this room to show him.

You must ensure that the feed bowls for the cat are out of reach for dogs; even if the dog doesn't show any interest in the cat's food, dog hairs and debris will get into the cat's food and make it very unappetising. It's advisable to place food well out of reach of dogs.

After the nervous cat has eaten, praise him softly but do not approach him. He may well come to you or he might just want to return to his sleeping place.

As time goes on, and when you're completely sure the cat is fully integrated, you can reduce to feeding in just one room (offering several bowls of different feeds, or at least enough bowls of one feed so that several cats can get enough). But I would still leave plenty of water bowls around. Knowing the statistics on kidney failure in this breed, you can never offer too much water and you will soon see that all the bowls are used, wherever they are placed. Keep an eye on these bowls and ensure you wash them and refill daily or more often. If you have put some bowls in a less accessible place, don't forget to check these as it's easy to assume the cat has drunk the water when in fact it has been kicked over, evaporated, etc.

Basically, you would follow all these same principles with the cat's bedding and litter tray; put these in a place he enjoys being and feels safe. Offer several beds and more than one tray, around the home, so that whatever's going on in one part of the home, he has somewhere safe to retreat to.

PERSONAL SPACE                       return to top

Many aspects of 'Personal Space' have already been addressed throughout the 'Environment' section, such as designated spaces for eating and sleeping undisturbed.

The only useful thing to add, is that it is helpful to give a cat who is prone to stress, his own personal space where he can retreat in the knowledge that you won't pursue him for any reason.

For example, many cats have a clear 'tolerance point' when being handled, after which they struggle to get away from their owners (when being bathed, groomed, etc.) and will hide. Some will become really distressed by grooming or over handling, and may even become aggressive before they flee. Whatever the scenario, you will often find that when the cat's tolerance period is exceeded, he seeks solace in the same hiding places each time. Respect him and let him do this.

If you know that he is genuinely distressed and yet you still pursue him and fetch him back from these hiding places, he gets to feel that you are the enemy, and that he is powerless. In taking this step, you are perpetuating and making worse the problem. I am hoping that you will be able to recognise what I mean by 'genuine distress' (as obviously, some confident cats will habitually run from being groomed but are not really distressed, just trying it on!).

The distressed, anxious cat should be allowed to escape from you when he has had enough of whatever it is you are doing to him. I find it useful to keep one place in the home, where a cat can go and where he can go and know that I absolutely respect his wish to be there. I then have to wait until he decides that he trusts me enough to make a reappearance.

Of course I am not advocating that, if your cat doesn't want to be groomed, etc., you let him go without entirely. Certain procedures such as eye cleaning and tablet administration, have to be achieved somehow. What I am saying is, recognise when he becomes distressed (rather than angry or irritated) and allow him to go.

Even if you know where he is hiding out, don't go and find him, except fleetingly to check you know he's there. When you see him, just gently tell him he's good, and say his name, but don't try and coax him out. This will show that you accept his privacy and the distance he has chosen to put between you. You will find that he reappears, and that his spells of hiding diminish as he gets to realise that you are respecting his decision to back off from you.

Your cat will show you which personal space he is choosing as his safe place. Each cat will have a different one. This will be the place he most commonly runs to when you are pursuing him with a comb, flea treatment, whatever.

When your cat reappears, don't just expect to continue with grooming or whatever made him disappear; reassure him, fuss him and let him be for another hour or so before having another small attempt, unless what you're trying to do is really urgent.

FAMILY MEMBERS & VISITORS                    return to top

The actions of family members and visitors, and how they interact with the Persian rescued cat, are largely addressed in earlier 'Environment' sections, especially in 'Noise & Activity Levels' and 'Persians & Children'.

There are just a few new points to add.

One is, just because your visiting son or daughter is 'family', don't assume that your Persian isn't going to be frightened of them! A son who has rarely been home, is just as strange to the cat as any other guest, and even worse he is going to stay several days at least. For the cat, having a new person living at home can be really stressful and may even cause messing behaviours or night-time howling, lack of appetite and clinginess.

It is understandable that you want your son or daughter to admire the new cat, but it's advisable to allow the Persian time to get to know them before they stroke the cat, etc., in the same way as any other new guest or visitor.

It is possible that, while your son or daughter was away from home, their room was empty; in this period, your cat may have taken a liking to your son's bed and you allowed him to sleep there! You are going to have to work with this as best you can. If you oust the cat from the bedroom, he will feel he has done something wrong and is being punished. Or, knowing that he has been kicked out in favour of the guest, will make him feel insecure and clingy. He may become more attention seeking. He will not know where to go for the best, if suddenly his favourite sleeping or sitting place is out of bounds.

Also, please don't allow visitors, even if they are family, to oust the cat from his usual haunts and habits themselves! For example, if the cat is used to sleeping on a certain spot on the sofa or worktop, why should your son then be allowed to remove him and put him on the floor? This will cause a feeling of insecurity. You should point out, 'the cat lives here, you don't!'

Visitors must treat the cat in exactly the same way you do, so please take time to think about this and explain it to guests. Backing this up with the story of how the cat was rescued, his particular background and the breed's tendency to insecurity, may help.

While visitors are present in your home, make sure that your Persian cat gets plenty of your attention, again to avoid him feeling left out and insecure. If he's in a separate room but would normally be with you, then go into the room as often as you can, even just to stroke him fleetingly and show you haven't forgotten him. You will be surprised how he will react. He'll purr louder than usual, and trill with excitement that you 'found' him and remembered him. You can also try standing at the bottom of the stairs, etc. and calling his name, not necessarily because you want him to respond by coming to you, but this way you're demonstrating that while everything else is going on, you're still thinking about him. I tend to favour the approach of seeking the cat out, walking round the house and saying softly 'Where's Mr P!?' He comes running out all excited and reassured. This kind of interaction will make sure he doesn't see visitors as a threat.

Don't forget that your visitors are probably not used to Persians and the fact that they are indoor cats only. The visitor may leave a door open while he goes out to his car or has a smoke on the patio. Your cat might disappear.

Similarly, your well meaning visitor may quite like cats but know nothing about this breed and their delicate stomach, and before you know it, the cat has been fed a slice of ham which could make him ill the next day, so again, ensure that visitors who might do something like this, are well briefed!

Don't let visitors pick up or otherwise manhandle your Persian unless you know him to be especially laid back and accepting of this. It is stressful enough for visitors to be 'taking over' the house, let alone for the poor cat to be pursued about the house or relentlessly handled by people he doesn't know.

'BOUNDARIES'                       return to top

When I rehome a Persian, I confess to looking for people who have no significant 'boundaries' in their home regarding what the cat may or may not do, where he may and may not go, etc. The cat should be able to feel a valued member of the household, and not continually chastised for his behaviour or restricted in his movement; this is especially important with a cat whose background we know little about, or where we do know that a cat has been hit, or otherwise psychologically or physically harmed.

Persian cats are generally pretty well behaved but, as rescued animals, they can be fairly disturbed and prone to messing around the home as already mentioned.

A cat from Chapelhouse Persian Rescue should go to a home where he has free access to all frequently used rooms, including the bedroom. I am not interested in homing to people who are concerned about whether their duvet cover gets paw marks, or their curtains get clawed! There are enough homes around, who have no restrictions, to mean that I don't need to take this route. If a rescued cat starts messing in the home, then certain measures can then be taken to restrict access to certain rooms, but the eventual aim would be to get the cat back to using all rooms freely.

The reasoning behind his free access to the whole house, is that the Persian is very person-centred, and he will hate being shut away from you and the household once he knows and trusts you. It can really undo the confidence building we have done for a cat, if the new owner starts imposing restrictions that exclude him. I recently rehomed a cat for whom the highlight of each day, was going to bed with his owner, sleeping on the pillow beside her head, just as he had done here. One night the cat messed on the duvet, so the new owner banned him from the room instead of seeing this as a stress behaviour that needed reassurance.

I feel that this cat has lost a significant part of his enjoyment in life, by this small action. The fact he 'has a comfortable bed in the conservatory' is no comfort, as I know that the reason he enjoyed the bed so much, was to be near his owner after many years of being neglected in a former home. I accept and understand that mess on the duvet is horrendous when it happens, but let's face it, if a child wet the bed, would we confine him to the conservatory or would we seek to overcome the problem? Those problems of insecurity that cause messing in children, also cause it in Persians. It's also a problem I've been through with both of my cream boys, and I accepted that the solution was to have one spare duvet and keep throwing older ones out! The cats cured themselves of the problem especially knowing I never got upset or angry, when they did it.

If a cat scratches the furniture, then I would simply say that his claws need clipping so chastising him isn't going to achieve anything. Furniture wrecking is rare in a Persian unless their claws are too long (though some will mischievously 'pretend' to scratch the sofa, to get attention if your mind is on something else!). If his claws are irritating him, he may well go for the sofa instead of a scratching post as in reality, most scratching posts aren't stable enough to take the full weight of a cat having a proper scratching session. They wobble about too much to be of much help. (A scratching post does not keep claws short, by the way...they still need clipping).

Whatever your cat is doing that irritates you, never raise your voice to him (unless he's about to get into danger when you may need a 'short sharp shock' as a one-off, such as if he's about to land on a hot stove). Shouting at a Persian cat will cause him a great deal of stress and may set off stress-reactive behaviours. If you have had to shout at him to stop him getting into a dangerous situation, then immediately fuss him afterwards to reassure him that whatever you were angry about has now passed, because he certainly won't have grasped the meaning of it.

CLEANLINESS & HYGIENE                       return to top

I look for basic standards of cleanliness and hygiene in any new home, basically to ensure that the cat is not going to be exposed to any risks, but also because I wonder whether people who can't keep basic hygiene standards, will really be scrupulous in the care of a specialised breed!

I have been to a home recently, where there was no space to stand up without picking the way between items of strewn clothing, cigarette ends, and dirt and debris of all kinds. The work surfaces in the kitchen were strewn with old food, including half eaten chicken pieces. Ashtrays were full to overflowing, and the fireplace was filled with all manner of household rubbish. Ash and assorted junk spilled out over the hearth.

There wasn't a clean room in the house.

In this environment, I'm afraid a Persian cat, with its unusually delicate disposition, would struggle and not thrive. It might as well live from dustbins. There were various obvious dangers. First, with dirt and debris all over patterned carpets, if the cat was sick or had diarrhoea, would anyone notice this or would a cat be ill and just not get treated? Would the cat be walking in its own faeces, if it was ill? Would a Persian thrive in a smoky atmosphere, giving the breed's breathing difficulties? What if the cat ate the old chicken bones and either choked or became ill from rotten meat? How would the skin and coat stay healthy, in a house full of dirt and debris?

Last, what indication was there, that standards of hygiene surrounding the cat's dishes and litter tray, would be upheld, when the rest of the house was filthy?

Needless to say, this home will not be adopting a Persian from me.

Hygiene standards I especially require in the care of a Persian cat are as follows.

Cleaning of Bowls and Combs

Bowls should be changed daily for clean ones, and day-old food discarded (max. 1.5 days is acceptable). Stainless steel bowls should be used.

Bowls must be washed in very hot water and rinsed thoroughly.

Disinfection is advised on a frequent basis if a multi-cat household, or periodic if a single cat. Make sure you do all the bowls in the house, even those that are in out of the way places. (For advice on Disinfectants, read 'Cleaning of Litter Tray').

Combs should be washed in really hot water, disinfected and all hair removed after each use, to keep them fresh for next time. Don't share combs between cats, and never take your cat to a grooming parlour as many do not disinfect their own combs and disease is passed from cat to cat (especially ringworm, which is notoriously difficult to get rid of and can be contracted by humans. If your cat is matted, ask the vet to deal with this instead).

Cleaning of Litter Tray

The litter tray must be emptied and scrubbed out at least twice a week. It is sensible to keep one clean spare, so that the cats aren't without a tray when the first is being scrubbed out.

To scrub out a tray, I would empty all the litter into a bin liner and throw this out, regardless of the advent of so-called 'everlasting' litters! Fill the litter tray with steaming hot water in the shower or bath. Add washing up liquid, and take a stiff handbrush. Scrub the tray on all sides inside and out, paying attention to underneath the rim and base. If it's a covered tray, do the same with the top part.

Take a strong (preferably pet formula) disinfectant and - out of the way of the cats - add this to the tray and again add water and scrub. Rinse really well to be certain no disinfectant remains, since many are highly toxic to Persians, if for example they should walk in any wet areas and then lick their paws.

If you have a white 'bloom' on your litter tray, it is not clean and is building up bacterial deposits potentially harmful to your cat! If you can't clean it, throw it away and start again from new.

Recommended disinfectants that are preferable for use with cats, are Tri-Gene (from the veterinary practice only); Virkon (veterinary practice or larger pet store such as Pets At Home or Petsmart); or Savlon (orange bottle, not the antiseptic in blue bottle. Make sure it says disinfectant).

Definitely do NOT use Dettol, bleach or any fluid that turns white in water unless the cats will not be anywhere near when the tray is cleaned or for some time after. All these can make your Persian seriously ill.

My personal recommendation is Tri-gene because it kills almost all things you could imagine, yet is safe for cats even if they walk in it (though you're still advised to keep them away). Tri-Gene is preferred by vet practices and hospitals for preventive use against some fairly lethal bacteria, so you won't do better! You can keep some in a garden spray bottle, to have on hand in case of emergencies. This product can only be ordered from the vet, and you will think it sounds pricey, but in fact it is great value as it will last a really long time. Plus, you'll have the satisfaction of knowing your cats are safe and you've done a thorough job. You can also use it for mopping.

Beware the quantity used, as Tri-Gene froths up and can become unmanageable if you use too much! However, Virkon also has its problems as it is pink and can leave a pink residue which doesn't look fetching on wood floors.

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